There are always a few seasons each year, I want to go to Jiangnan.
That misty and hazy tenderness, every year I think about it, every year I can’t get rid of it.
Simple and gentle
And there are too many so-called “Jiangnan”, all of them are small bridges and flowing water, all are white walls and black tiles.
I kept thinking, and sometimes forgot, the Jiangnan that made myself think about it,
Which one is it?
One after another South Bank of Taihu Lake The small town broke into sight.
The more I look, the more I like it, the more I understand, the more I like it.
It was gradually determined that the Jiangnan in the dream was not elsewhere, just there—
As someone said:
“I have walked through more than a dozen ancient towns in the south of the Yangtze River. Only when I was in Nanxun did I feel that I had truly walked into the old charm of the water town. As the years go by, people are fortunate enough to find the Jiangnan in their dreams in the mountains and rivers of Nanxun, Huzhou.”
“A city in Huzhou is less than half a town in Nanxun.”
Nanxun is located in the hinterland of Hangjiahu Plain, and there is a Xunxi River in the town;
In the south of the river, merchants gather and there are many houses, so it is “Nanlin”, and each initial word is “Nanxun”.
This ancient water town with a history of nearly 800 years was once a rare Rich town .
During the Ming Dynasty, it was already “rich in farming mulberry, and it was ranked first in Zhejiang.”
In its heyday, it was even more famous as “Thousands of families gather in the water market, and merchants and fish boats are neighbors.”
The Ming Dynasty said: “There are thousands of fireworks and fireworks, and the boats and sails are radiating. It is the Xiong Town of Jiangsu and Zhejiang.”
So later, when it comes to Nanxun, everyone’s favorite title is—
Jiangnan Xiong Town.
There are not a few rich towns in Jiangnan, but Nanxun is different.
It’s developed from wire begin.
The ancient book records: “Nan Xun is kind to those who look at silk reeling.”
The old Nanxun people said: “Nanxun is thriving, green mulberry grows from the fertile soil, silk is reeled with clear water, silk begets money, and money grows town.”
Rutherford Alcock, British Consul in Shanghai,
In his customs report from 1847-1848, he mentioned:
Huzhou Prefecture is the region with the most silk production in China.
Among them, Nanxun Town surpassed Shuanglin Town and Linghu Town, ranking first.
Nanxun Ancient Town Silk Industry Hall
In May 1851, the World Exposition in London, England.
Rongji Husi from Huzhou, White, soft and flexible .
When Westerners opened it, they were amazed.
Six years later, a delegation of British silk merchants came to Nanxun, Huzhou.
They later wrote an inspection report, which was very poetic, saying Nan Xun:
“Almost every family raises silkworms, and every household reels silk. Everyone has the taste of lake silk in their lives.”
The best-selling of Huzhou Ji Lisi directly brought The prosperity of Nanxun .
In this process, this small town has accumulated a huge amount of wealth.
Even some people say that “a city in Huzhou is less than half a town in Nanxun”.
In the Guangxu period of the Qing Dynasty, Nanxun began to appear “Four elephants, eight cows and seventy-two golden dogs” This statement.
“Four elephants, eight cows, and seventy-two dogs” are those of Nanxun Wealthy businessman .
They have strong capital and made a fortune because of Husi.
Those with wealth of more than ten million taels of silver are called “Elephant” .
Those who are more than five million taels of silver but not more than ten million are called “Cattle” .
If it is more than one million taels of silver and less than five million, for example “dog” .
Among them, the four elephants are the most famous. They are:
Liu Yong family, Zhang Songxian family, Pang Yunzeng family, Gu Fuchang family.
There was a folk song saying:
“The silver of the Liu family, the gifted man of the Zhang family, the face of the Pang family, the house of the Gu family”.
Among them, headed by the Liu family, is the richest man in Nanxun.
The name of the Liu family’s originator is Liu Yong (Not Liu Yong).
After Liu Yong made his fortune, he began to build his private garden and family temple in 1885.
Because of the name of the “Lotus Villa” built by Zhao Meng, the painter and calligrapher of Mu Yuan and Song Dynasty, he named his private garden “Little Lotus” .
This garden is very elegant and beautiful, and everyone who comes to Nanxun will admire it.
Nanxun has left the strongest stroke with its brilliant humanities.
During the Ming Dynasty, Nanxun’s humanities gradually flourished, and talented people appeared in large numbers.
Known as “Nine Miles and Three Pavilions, Ten Miles and Two Shangshu” .
In addition to Sange Lao and Liang Shangshu, many Jinshi, Juren, Gongsheng, and Zhusheng were born there.
In a township, in less than 100 years, so many high-ranking officials and intellectuals have come out.
It is rare.
Later, it was the merchants who supported the Nanxun context.
That is “Xun Shang” .
After the wars in the late Qing Dynasty and the beginning of the Republic of China, the merchants of Nanxun became elegant “gentry merchants” with family and country feelings.
“If you want to understand Nanxun carefully, you must do your homework in advance. At least let the owner of the inn tell you about the prosperous scene of Nanxun, the ups and downs of several big families and the influence in modern China. We It was introduced by the innkeeper. It was very detailed, and it sounded really amazing.”
Walking into a house, you will see words like this written on the wall, which are the teachings of the older generation of Nanxun merchants to future generations:
“It is very important for future generations to read some books.”
The businessmen in Nanxun knew that in order to do business well, they must not only have a network, but also that they cannot close themselves and see the world with their eyes open.
So to read more books , So that the family business can continue to be passed on.
Picture from @ginger
The Nanxun family back then paid great attention to cultural accumulation.
They are sophisticated, caring about society, enthusiastic about public welfare, and advocating equality.
They build schools, run library buildings, support widows and widows, and support the children of the clan to study.
The most impressive thing is Zhang Jingjiang .
He was born in the family of a great silk merchant in Jiangnan, and he gave great economic support to Sun Yat-sen’s revolution.
So much so that Mr. Sun Yat-sen called him “Revolutionary Saint” .
Zhang Jingjiang’s former residence wrote that he told Mr. Sun Yat-sen that I admire you very much. If the revolution needs funds, I only need to report to me and send the money. Since then, Zhang Jingjiang has provided funds many times. As long as Sun Yat-sen’s telegram arrives, the funds will pass.
Bai Yansong once went to Nanxun, and later he told a story in his book:
The locals led him Jiayetang Library , The explainer introduced it like this:
“Chinese people often say,’we are not rich in three generations.’ You see, this third generation has produced a cultural man. The third generation of cultural man loves books and is obsessed with books. He bought all the huge wealth accumulated by the previous two generations into books There are a total of 170,000 isolated and rare books, and this library building has been built.”
Now, this library is Nanxun One of the most famous monuments , Is also a branch of Zhejiang Library.
Before the liberation of Nanxun, Premier Zhou Enlai gave a special instruction, Tell the People’s Liberation Army that there is a library here, which is not allowed to be bombarded by artillery, and that it must be protected.
So later, everyone who came here sighed,
Fortunately, the third generation is a “prodigal son”, The money accumulated by the ancestors was “failed” into a culture, which made this family famous forever .
Combination of Chinese and Western
Nanxun, a different Jiangnan town.
It has not been in the list of popular ancient towns, there is no famous Wuzhen, and no noise in Zhouzhuang;
At first glance, it seems that the place is surrounded by clear water and flowing water, which is no different from the traditional Jiangnan water town.
If you look closely, there are surprises everywhere.
At the end of the Qing Dynasty and the beginning of the Republic of China, Nanxun, a wealthy side, began to appear Chinese and Western buildings .
The elegant and elegant business seekers are open and inclusive, appreciating the beauty of Western architecture and using it for their own residences.
So, the classical and gentle town, It has a finely crafted western charm .
Today, these magnificent buildings stand low-key in ancient streets and alleys, But it can still reflect the richness and glory of the past.
Such a well-made building with both Chinese and Western charm, even if you look at the whole Jiangnan, it is not easy to see.
No wonder someone said:
“When you come to Nanxun, just visiting these beautiful buildings left by famous historical people, a daylight view is not enough.”
Three sons of Liu Yong Liu Tiqing’s old house , Red walls and white tops,
It is a typical, beautiful building after Sino-Western exchanges in the Republic of China.
The appearance is extremely beautiful, the plaster of the roof conveys The complex beauty of Baroque architecture .
Wandering in the old Japanese mansion, watching Deep courtyard , Read the story of every household.
Go out again, feel the smoke and flowing water, you will find, Nanxun is indeed not like an ordinary Jiangnan town .
Everything here is due to the past Prosperity , Become graceful and majestic, melancholy .
Here both Riches ,also Low-key ; Both marketplace ,also Literature and art .
Small bridges and flowing water, alleys crisscross; wealthy houses, private gardens.
Under the infiltration of the warm waters of the south of the Yangtze River, Nanxun, which has experienced prosperity and honor, Now at peace .
But you seem to be able to see the flow of the past bustling in the air, and hear the hustle and bustle of people.
Take a walk around Nanxun
“Walking all over Jiangnan Ninety-nine, it’s better to walk around Nanxun.”
If there is only one choice of Jiangnan Ancient Town, then go to Nanxun.
Come to Nanxun and take a look at “Little Lotus Village.”
Jiangnan Xiaolianzhuang, ten-mile lotus pond.
The Xiaolianzhuang building is beautiful, and the artistic conception of the lotus pond is even better.
The pool water is rippling, the new lotus is swaying, and the beautiful promenade is built along the pool.
Looking at such a pool of Bibo, you can probably spend an afternoon in Xiaolianzhuang.
Come to Nanxun and stroll around “Hundred Houses”;
According to legend, Dong Fen, the Shangshu from Nanxun, married his grandson to the right daughter-in-law. The wife’s family claimed that there were a hundred maidservants in her family, and they had no place to live with their daughters.
So Dong Fen responded boldly: “I chose a place to build 100 townhouses, so that your maidservant can live in one room.”
Hundreds of buildings are named after it.
Perhaps you have walked through many ancient towns in the south of the Yangtze River, but Baijianlou will still bring you infinite surprises, and its layout is much more beautiful.
Come to Nanxun, take a look at the old house, and meet the Shenzhai compound unexpectedly;
The humanity of Nanxun is its soul, and it is also the biggest difference from other small towns.
Here, turn left and right, and you will meet a former residence unexpectedly.
Zhang Shiming’s former residence, the owner of the house once funded the construction of the first private mansion in Jiangnan.
Zhang Jingjiang’s former residence, you have to stay in it for a while and read the master’s story.
Come to Nanxun, watch the heritage of the rhyme, walk into the “Jiayetang Library” and feel quietly;
The library building and Xiaolianzhuang are separated by a river,
It is the largest private library in modern China with the richest collection of books.
When I came to Nanxun, I always felt something different in this small town.
Perhaps, its unique temperament comes from the rich scholarly fragrance floating in the air.
Come to Nanxun and eat some authentic Jiangnan cuisine.
You Nanxun, one day is not enough.
Set aside two or three days for yourself to eat everything you should eat.
Fengchan tea, smoked bean tea, thousands of fans bag, champion building double noodles, embroidered brocade… don’t miss the same.
When the lights of the ancient town come on at night, A small table, two or three small chairs ,
Facing the flowing water and the old street, light a little, and then order a few Nanxun special dishes,
Small river prawns, white water fish, brocade, dried celery, crispy tofu …
Just like this, while eating and chatting, three to five hours passed by accident.
Day, buy a bottle Nanxun sweet-scented osmanthus rice dew , Taste a piece Orange Red Cake , Leisurely, walking on foot.
Walking and walking, maybe, met a cat , See under the window a flower , Encountered a coffee shop.
Even the small shop here is also poetic and picturesque, making people willing slow down , Feel the beauty of time stagnation.
In the days of Nanxun, so many inadvertently hit your heart.
In the future, I can miss it for a long, long time.
Don’t worry about this in this life